Turning of the Century Clothing/ Fashion

Formal ensemble, about 1765. Museum no. T.137 to B.1932

Men's Wearing apparel

At the beginning of the 18th century the male silhouette differed greatly from that of today. A typical outfit consisted of a total-skirted knee-length coat, knee breeches, a vest or long waistcoat (which could be sleeved), a linen shirt with frills and linen underdrawers. Lower legs showed and were an of import role of the silhouette. Men wore silk stockings and leather shoes with stacked heels of low or medium height. The whole ensemble would have been topped by a shoulder-length total-bottomed wig and a tricorne (iii-cornered) lid with an upturned brim.

As the century progressed, the male person silhouette slowly changed. By the middle of the century the wig was usually tied back (known every bit the tye or bag wig). By the end of the century information technology was out of fashion altogether except for the virtually formal occasions. Undergarments and knee breeches did not alter very much. Glaze skirts gradually became less full and the front was cutting in a curved line towards the back. Waistcoats became shorter. The upper leg began to show more than and more and by the end of the century breeches fitted better considering they were often made of knitted silk. Shoes became low-heeled with pointed toes and were fastened with a detachable buckle and straps or ribbon on the vamp (the upper front part of a kicking or shoe).

Women'southward Dress

Mantua or court dress, silk embroidered with coloured silk and silver thread, England, 1740-45, Museum no. T.260-1969

In the early 18th century women wore a dress known equally a mantua for formal occasions. The mantua was an open-fronted silk or fine wool gown with a railroad train and matching petticoat. The railroad train was worn looped up over the hips to reveal the petticoat. The bodice had loose elbow-length sleeves finished with wide turned-back cuffs. A hoop petticoat and several under-petticoats wore worn below the outer petticoat.

To give the figure the required shape a corset was worn under the bodice. It was made of linen and stiffened with whale bones inserted between parallel lines of stitching. They attached with lacing down the back which could be laced tightly to give an upright posture to the torso and to emphasise the waist. A 'busk' or strip of bone, wood or metallic was sometimes incorporated into the front of the stays.

Hair was worn close to the head with a pocket-sized linen cap which sometimes had lace lappets, streamers that hung
either side of a adult female's cap. The cap was covered by a
hood or hat for outer wear.

In the 1730s the 'sack back' apparel worn over a hoop petticoat became increasing fashionable. It remained in fashion until the 1780s. The sack dorsum was made from v or half-dozen panels of silk pleated into two box pleats at the centre back of the neck ring. It flowed downward and was incorporated into the fullness of the skirt. It was worn over a matching petticoat besides as a hoop petticoat. The 'nightgown style' or style anglaise had a pleated back. The pleats were stitched flat from the back of the neck to the eye back waist.

Hoop petticoats were usually made of linen with split cane hoops stitched in at intervals and held the brim of the petticoat and the robe out at the sides. They were at their widest in the 1740s and 1750s when they could measure over one.5m beyond. Hoop petticoats were worn on formal occasions. Equally with many fashions, it is hard to say why such a cumbersome outfit was pop. One reason might have been that it displayed the richly embroidered cloth of the skirt that indicated the wearer's wealth.

During the 1770s pilus styles became college, every bit they were combed over a padded curl or worn over a frame.

Between the 1780s and 1800 a very noticeable change took place in the female person silhouette. The waistline became college until it reached the bust. The skirt was reduced in width and hoop petticoats were discarded except at court. In their place crescent-shaped pads were worn at the heart dorsum waist beneath the brim to help fill out the gathers at the back of the dress. In the 1790s corsets were lightly boned and ordinarily made of linen. Hair was frizzed or worn in short curls.

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